The next destination for every Italophile’s list
The dome and bell tower of Siena’s Cathedral (Photo: Camilla Allibone)
The historic city of Siena is located in the ambling hills of Southern Tuscany, a region renowned for its immense geographical and cultural beauty. The biggest of the walled towns that punctuate this region, Siena has a rich and vibrant history and serves in many ways as a unique monument to the towns of pre-Renaissance Italy, indeed, the size of its population has never recovered since the Black Death! My proposed city tour aims to engage the visitor with Siena’s duality as both a window into the past and the living city that I experienced during my year there. Amongst my recommendations are well-known attractions, that have earnt their recognition and undoubtedly merit a visit. Meanwhile, I have included lesser-known spots that one may not easily stumble across, where you are guaranteed to feel more assimilated with the Sienese community and its customs. In all, I hope I can show you how, although small and on the tourist-trail, Siena is bursting with culture and life, and is definitely worth more than the token day trip!
For the art lover…
If you are passionate or curious about art, the Complesso del duomo should be on your list. Containing delights of art and architecture alike, the collection houses famous works such as Nicola Pisano’s pulpit: a gateway in sculpture to the high renaissance style, where its classical iconography symbolises the rebirth of the artistic brilliance witnessed in antiquity. What’s more, the cathedral itself and its highly decorative façade is astounding independent to its context. The striking colours of the alternating layers of green serpentina and creamy white marble, which are iconic of Tuscan liturgical architecture, distinguish it in Siena’s skyline for many miles. Protected in a dark room in the centre of the cathedral’s museum lies Duccio’s monumental altarpiece. Duccio di Buoninsegna is one of Siena’s biggest celebrities; he was one of the most influential trecento artists, whose works influenced the likes of Raffaelo, Leonardo and Michelangelo. The most popular ticket is the “OPA SI” pass entitling the holder to visit all the museums in the complex. However, if you have the extra cash, I recommend opting for the “porta del cielo” ticket that includes a tour of the duomo’s roof taking you inside the rafters, round the external perimeter of the cupola, and along otherwise inaccessible internal balconies across the nave, providing unbeatable views of the intricate floor mosaics.
Complesso del duomo (Photo: Camilla Allibone)
Often overlooked, the Pinacoteca is humble in comparison to the immense Duomo complex, yet it is rich with jewels of the Sienese painting school, offering exemplary works of international gothic (the style that precluded the Renaissance) by famous names such as: Duccio; Simone Martini; and the Lorenzetti brothers. The works are displayed chronologically, offering a comprehensive overview of the artistic progression seen in Siena from the duecento through to the Renaissance. The ticket is only a couple of euros for students, and free if you study art!
Piazza Jacopo della Quercia (Photo: Camilla Allibone)
The Palazzo pubblico, for me, is another must-see artistic site, home to the famous Lorenzetti Allegory of Good and Bad Government. They are some of the most detailed and expert frescos surviving from the medieval age that treat a secular subject and serve a civic purpose. Inside, you can also visit the tower and ceremonial balcony giving wonderful views of the city and countryside.
Palazzo Pubblico (Photo: Camilla Allibone)
The perfect aperitivo…
In Campo you will find many bars charging extortionate rates for mediocre drinks accompanied by peanuts and crisps. Whilst these offerings seem generous to a UK audience, you can find superior offerings elsewhere. In a prime position on one corner of the campo, Liberamente offers a freshly cooked plate of local meat, cheese and other stuzzichini for just €6 with your drink. Look out for their monthly cocktails, often inspired variations of the traditional spritz.
If you’re looking for a buffet-style aperitivo and a more chilled vibe, Bottega roots lies just steps away from the campo, offering a great selection of local wines, €4 aperol spritz and occasional live music.
During the summer an outdoor bar opens at Fortezza, the medieval fortress overlooking the city. Even if the prices are a little higher than other places in town, the views and (often live!) music create an atmosphere worth those few more euros. This place is a must at sunset, when the sun panoramically descends into the undulating hills.
Dining like the locals…
As well as classic Sienese delicacies such as pici and wild boar ragu, Osteria Kamolia offers an exceptional speciality of its own: a handmade pasta stuffed with cacio cheese and pear drizzled with a homemade parmesan sauce. The staff are very friendly, and you will likely be offered a free coffee or digestif, a welcome pick-me-up before more site seeing or the perfect nightcap.
For Neapolitan-standard pizza with a view try il pomodorino (the little tomato), overlooking the southern hills and friary of San Domenico.
More to explore if you have a car or bike:
There are numerous natural hot springs in the greater Siena area, popular with the locals for the water’s healing properties, it is rumoured to inspire longevity by strengthening your respiratory system and lymphatic tracts. I would recommend going to one of the wild spots like Bagni di Petriolo. These pools have been used by the Romans and Etruscans and are accessible 24/7, so you could plan to start your day with a sunrise dip!
The stunning abbey of San Galgano has transcended its religious function attracting visitors for its architectural intrigue, as the church has been roofless since the 18th century. A superlative example of Italian gothic architecture, it is located about half an hour’s drive from Siena, a journey that will take you through the Val d’Orcia, arriving down a cypress flanked path to the nave.
The river Merse is a much lesser-known spot of natural beauty, its banks giving a welcome respite from the heat of the summer months. Locals and students often venture here for some air, bringing picnics, making fires, and jumping off the rocks.