La Vendemmia: the sacred art of grape pressing
Entering a winery nestled in the rolling hills of Tuscany, I was hit by the rich, fruity perfume of Chianti Classico wine. This profumo was a scent I would soon become accustomed to, and love as I encountered it every day interning during the months of the harvest. The vendemmia, or wine harvest, generally occurs from the end of August into October and, much like its delicious perfume, pours through the cypress-lined Chianti hills, running through the heart of Tuscan culture.
In Tuscany, the culture of wine and winemaking can be seen everywhere. During the harvest months, lush green vineyards are speckled with workers collecting grapes. It is hard to stroll down a street without passing an enoteca, an advert for a wine tasting tour, or even a buchetta del vino. Unsurprising, seeing as Tuscany boasts some incredible wines, from the world-renowned Chianti Classico and Brunello di Montalcino to fragrant Vin Santo dessert wine. It can be seen on an industrial level with big players in the wine industry harvesting huge amounts of grapes for that year’s vintage, but also on a local level. Tuscans with small plots of land harvest batches of grapes each year, often with the help of the whole family - children included! I was told of the Tuscan childhood snack, or ‘merenda Toscana’, pane, vino, zucchero (literally ‘bread, wine and sugar’). This snack is made with ‘pane sciapo’ or in Tuscan ‘pane sciocco’, meaning ‘without salt’, with red wine poured on top and finally a sprinkle of sugar to sweeten.
The roots of the Italian vendemmia trace back to Ancient Rome, with two sacred wine festivals taking place: the Vinalia Rustica and the Vinalia Urbana. The Vinalia Urbana would take place in April as a sacred rite for the Ancient Romans and an opportunity to sample the previous year’s vintage. Later in the year was the Vinalia Rustica, an auspicatio: a ceremony to pray for a good harvest and to avert stormy weather. A lamb would be sacrificed and its organs offered to the gods. However, in the early days of Ancient Rome not everyone was able to enjoy a glass, as wine was a privilege strictly reserved for men over the age of 35. Thankfully, things soon improved, and in the times of the Republic all were allowed to enjoy wine as an integral part of daily life. It is unsurprising, then, that this tradition has continued, with wine still playing an important part in Italian culture.
Working in a winery was a step into a world in which I had limited knowledge, especially coming from England where wine is arguably a less intrinsic part of the culture. The world of wine can generally feel fairly inaccessible, however, I found that in Italy knowledge of wine and appreciation was not just reserved for a certain group of people, there was a wide understanding of what food to pair with certain wines, how it is made and their own local recommendations. The people who I worked with in the business had a genuine passion and great willingness to share their knowledge. There, wine was a part of their lives and it was clear that for them it was a cultural necessity. This was especially true if they were Tuscan or lived in Tuscany, as they had a strong link to the land and could speak at length about the surrounding landscape. People from all departments would either have previous knowledge of wine, or had gained a keen interest in the process of working there, with many colleagues embarking on sommelier courses and attending wine events. Though I wasn’t working directly on the vineyards pressing the grapes myself, I had a great opportunity to learn about the process of winemaking and its history in Italy straight from my office role. The main advice that stuck out to me, simple yet so important, was that wine should be enjoyed. It was something to savour and sip slowly, to discuss and to drink among friends and family. For Italians, the wine pairing is just as important as the food, an extra garnish which only enriches and compliments the meal or evening drink.
Being from England and more accustomed to drinking a pint in a pub or an Aldi Albariño, even going for an aperitivo outside of work hours was no casual affair. Wine bottles would be covered in foil and sampled by everyone, each guessing which region the wine was from, before someone would triumphantly yell out which specific wine we were tasting. A rite of passage in the world of wine and evidently in Tuscan life.
While clay amphorae are still used by some vintners today, the process of wine-making has evolved significantly with many wineries using uber modern technology. Today, tech plays a part in every step of the wine-making process, from harvesting to fermentation to bottling.
Satellites and drones are used by some wineries to monitor the vineyards, while a robot named ‘Ted’, developed by Naïo technologies, has taken on the role of mechanical weeding as an alternative to herbicides. However, some wineries still rely on good old-fashioned manpower to press the grapes. Aside from sampling the wine - which is essential when visiting Tuscany - there are other ways to immerse yourself in the wine culture. There are many locations which allow you to get directly involved with the grape crushing… and here are a couple!
The Castello di Velona winery in Montalcino – where you can experience being a part of the harvest in the scenic vineyards of the castle. They also offer incredible tasting experiences and masterclasses in the atmospheric setting of the medieval town. Another is Tenuta Torciana in San Gimignano - where you can get stuck in old-school style and take part in grape-treading. This is a truly immersive experience where, instead of using a wine press, you stand in the vats and stomp on the grapes with your feet! I would absolutely recommend visiting Tuscany to experience the magic of the vendemmia. Whether you decide to visit a winery or get involved with grape-treading yourself, be sure to enjoy a calice di vino!
All images belong to the author, unless otherwise stated.