A Journey Through Georgia

Bathhouse in Tbilisi (Photo: Roman Odintsev)

Situated at the crossroads of civilisations, Georgia’s vibrant culture is a veritable palimpsest, produced because of and in defiance of encounters with its larger neighbours. The capital, Tbilisi, is a city of contrasts; from its world-class techno scene to its Old Town’s winding alleys lined with the colourful balconies of historic Georgian architecture. Tbilisi is also the perfect location to sample Georgia’s delicious culinary offerings, from indulgent khachapuri (cheese bread) to the iconic khinkali (dumplings made of twisted dough and filled with meat, cheese and/or potatoes). The Greater Caucasus lies a short distance from the capital, enchanting visitors with its soaring peaks and striking scenery. For oenophiles, the wine region of Kakheti is ripe for discovering the ancient art of winemaking in the country discovered to be the birthplace of wine some 8000 years ago. While no longer off the beaten track, Georgia remains an up-and-coming destination whose affordability and authenticity make it a perfect destination for students wanting to venture beyond the well-trodden paths.

Below you will find an ideal seven-day itinerary for exploring Tbilisi and getting a taste of what the rest of Georgia has to offer...

Day 1:

Get lost in Tbilisi’s Old Town (Sololaki/Abanotubani) and soak off the travel tension in the city’s iconic sulphur bathhouses. In the evening, visit Nariqala Fortress and the Mother of Georgia statue at sundown to get a fantastic panorama over the city bathed in golden light. Nariqala was originally built by the Persians in the 4th century during their occupation of what is now known as Georgia. It is free to visit and open 24 hours every day of the week. Safety note: it is best to visit at sunset, but do not linger for too long as there are few barriers and paths are not developed and can be particularly dangerous when it is dark. It is better to view the fortress at night from afar when it is lit up. Take the cable car up to the Mother of Georgia statue and walk back down via the fortress.

Left to right: Mother of Georgia Statue, Narikala Fortress lit up at night, Abanotubani and Narikala Fortress (Photo: Yaroslava Borz)

Day 2:

Explore Tbilisi’s museums on the famous Rustaveli Avenue, named after famous Georgian poet Shota Rustaveli. The Georgian National Museum is a must-see, with an eclectic array of exhibitions ranging from pre-historic Georgia to a display of antique weapons from around the world. The most hard-hitting exhibition is the one dedicated to the Soviet occupation of Georgia and its repressions. I also highly recommend visiting the Treasury, which has the most stunning examples of gold jewellery from the region’s ancient tradition of goldsmithing. For art lovers, make sure to pay a visit to the MoMA Zurab Tsereteli and the National Gallery to see renowned Georgian artists’ work. Discover the likes of Niko Pirosmani, whose iconic artworks are widely loved in Georgia and can be found emulated across the city in cafés and on walls. Student concessions are available for tickets.

Day 3:

Take the marshrutka (minibus used as public transport around former Soviet countries), or hire a taxi driver to take you there and back, to the wine-region Kakheti. The best place to sample Georgian wine is where it is produced; call ahead to book a visit at Gurami Papa’s Winery in Sagarejo, where you are treated to a spread of breads, cheeses and Georgian spices, such as adjika, to complement the European-style and traditional qvevri wines you will be offered. Make sure to visit Sighnaghi, known as Georgia’s City of Love. Pheasant’s Tears serves great wine and tasty traditional Georgian fare. A must-visit is St Nino’s Bodbe Monastery, which is the final resting place of Saint Nino – the legendary figure revered for her role in bringing Christianity to Georgia.

Left to right: Winetasting at Gurami Papa’s Winery, Sagarejo, The Church at Bodbe, Sighnaghi, Colourful car, Sighnaghi

Day 4:

Spend the morning exploring Mtskheta, the former capital of Georgia. 25 minutes from Tbilisi, Mtskheta is a perfect short half-day trip from the capital. Do not miss the Jvari Monastery, perched on a hilltop overlooking the ancient city. Emily Lush of WanderLush says, ‘Jvari dates back to the 6th century and is tied to the story of Saint Nino, one of Georgia’s patron saints and the woman responsible for spreading Christianity through this territory.’ Many of the key sites found in Mtskheta are inscribed on the UNESCO heritage list. For lunch, stop off at Tatin Café, which has a lovely terrace (and cute cats). Take the marshrutka there or order a Bolt on the Bolt app.

Jvari Monastery, Mtskheta (Photo: Artem Yellow)

Day 5:

In summer months, venture into the Greater Caucasus on a trip to Kazbegi, located on the border with Russia. The road trip along the Georgian Military Highway reveals stunning scenery and interesting Soviet monuments, such as the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, and is home to the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, located at a dizzying 2170m. In winter, hit the slopes at Gudauri ski resort, which is undergoing a flurry of development, with many new hotels and restaurants cropping up. Take the marshrutka or hire a private transfer (which might feel less terrifying when the roads are icy…).

Day 6:

Go thrifting in morning in the Marjanishvili area of Tbilisi, home to the capital’s hipsters. Here you will find a slew of second-hand and vintage clothes shops where many a bargain can be found. Afterwards, explore the shops and restaurants at Fabrika, a former Soviet textiles factory turned hostel. This is where the young, anti-Russian crowd like to hang out and drink beers in the courtyard decorated with pro-Ukrainian murals and fairy lights. In the afternoon, head toward the Dry Bridge to find an eclectic array of goods for sale at the flea market, where you can buy artwork, Soviet memorabilia, handmade jewellery and assorted household goods – it is a veritable treasure trove worth having a dig through to find something unique as a holiday souvenir. For dinner, reserve a table at Shavi Lomi, a restaurant offering traditional Georgian cuisine with a twist, where you can line your stomach before a night out at Bassiani, Tbilisi’s top nightclub and one of the world’s best techno clubs. Modelled off Berlin’s techno scene, Bassiani is housed in an old Soviet swimming pool in the basement of a football stadium and boasts a world-class sound system.

A feline shop assistant in a vintage store, Tbilisi

Day 7:

Nurse your hangover with brunch at Kikliko, whose menu is based on the Georgian version of French toast, kikliko. If you have time before your flight, pay a visit to the Botanical Garden and stroll among the cultivated gardens (entry 5 GEL).

How to do it:

Fly to Tbilisi via Istanbul with Pegasus
Currency: Georgian lari (GEL) = 1 GBP/3.28 GEL
Timezone: GMT +4
Language: Georgian; other commonly used languages are English and Russian
For more suggestions and tips for travel in Georgia, head to https://wander-lush.org/georgia-travel-guide/
Tbilisi is a highly walkable city. There is also a bus system and metro, which take card payments. It is advisable to get a metro card that you can pre-load money onto as it makes metro fares cheaper.
Useful phrases: Gamarjoba – Hello; Madloba – Thank you; Nakhvamdis – Goodbye

Tips:

Dress modestly to enter churches; you may even be asked to cover your hair and wrap a “skirt” around your trousers.
The cats and dogs of Tbilisi are very friendly and ubiquitous. Be careful around dogs beyond the centre of cities as they can be aggressive and there is a low chance they may be carrying rabies.
Do expect to fall in love with the country and its culture and want to come back.

Sulphur baths, Tbilisi: photo by Yusif Atakishiyev

All images belong to the author, unless otherwise stated.